Ordering Replacement Watch Case Parts Is Anything But Simple

I recently came across one of a series of articles compiled by the Educational Projects Committee of the WMJDA (Watch Material and Jewelry Distributors of America) on the correct methods for ordering replacement watch parts. This article is directed to watchmakers and watch repairmen, but it certainly highlights many of the problems facing the watch repair industry today. Being aware of just some these will help you to be more patient when you need a new part for your watch and should encourage you to be careful and meticulous concerning proper maintenance of you watch or watches.

When you need a replacement part for your watch, you will take it to a jeweler or watch repairman who often then has to deal with distributors of replacement parts who may, in turn need to contact the watch manufacturer. This alone accounts for some of the ‘delay’ or time you are required to wait.

The article I read discusses the difference between case parts and watch movement parts. It points out that many watch manufacturers will case a single watch movement model in different types of cases over the years. So the same watch movement model come in several case styles of different quality. This means that if you need replacement crowns, hands, crystals, gaskets etc, your watchmaker or jeweler really needs more than the movement model number in order to supply the correct part (or to order it from a parts distributor or wholesaler, if he does not have it in stock).  Apparently, not all watch repairmen are aware of this, and distributors often receive orders for case replacement parts that they can’t supply without additional information. The wholesaler will then have to contact the watch repairman to get this information. The tremendous variety of case parts available for any given watch is one of the main reasons that complicate the ordering of watch case parts.

Only a few watch manufacturers use a case code number system, making it possible to order replacement crowns by case number and color. Most crowns however have no factory case code number and these have to be ordered in the same way as non-genuine (imitation) crowns i.e. the repairman or jeweler should provide a complete description or the crown needed. This includes: outside diameter, opening diameter, color, style (regular, water resistant or dust proof) and shape (dome shaped, bevel-bottom, round etc), as well as post length and other criteria. If you need a replacement crown for a pocket chance, you must be prepared to wait even longer – and keep your fingers crossed. Due to the decline in demand and rising production costs, these have become very rare.

Watch hands are another case replacement part that cannot be ordered by movement model number alone. If he doesn’t have the watch hands in stock, your watchmaker will need to specify in his order (in addition to the make and caliber of the watch movement) things like hour and minute-hole size, dial diameter, watch hand style and color and whether your watch has a plain dial or a radium (luminous) one.

Watch crystals, which often need to be replaced, also pose problems. Because of the great number of new watches constantly being produced, it is very difficult for crystal manufacturers produce replacement crystals for all the new cases. The only exception is round waterproof crystals, which are readily available.

If you have decided to repair an older watch, you must be prepared for an even longer wait – and to pay more than ever before. Interest in repairing old watches has increased recently and this is rapidly draining available supplies of case parts. In fact, according to the article mentioned above, the stock of older American watch parts is almost completely depleted. Hampden, Howard, Illinois and South Bend watch manufacturers, for example, have all been out of business since the early 1930s. Some watch manufacturers, such as Elgin, have stopped producing parts for older models, and parts for Waltham watches are becoming hard to find as well.

There’s a good chance that the replacement part(s) you may need for your older watch have to non-genuine. For many years now, non-genuine parts (such as balance staffs and mainsprings) have been produced in order to repair older watches. This time-consuming and labor intensive process is, of course, expensive.

When you need replacement parts for your watch, don’t be irritated by the waiting period involved. If you own an older watch that is in good condition, you should be extremely conscientious about maintenance.

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Watch Case Parts